[Music] hey this is David with Redline rebuild today we're going to assemble our Chrysler 440 and as you can see the engine's block is all painted and I have some glyptol on it it is ready to be assembled that way over here we have all our parts laid out throughout the shop here so we have our gasket kit our freeze plug or core plugs our cam bearings timing camshaft and then over here we have all of our rotating assembly laid out Pistons rods Rings crank bearings oil pan so we've got it as organized as we can have so to speak and then we have all the cylinder head pieces on this table and then lastly we'll call it our accessories right I mean an intake manifold really is an accessory it's requirement but we have our exhaust manifold our intake manifold our water pump fuel pump starter clutch all right so I'm going to get started in assembling this engine now oddly enough I have to take it off the engine stand so I can put in the cam bearings and then I'll put the freeze plugs in while it's on back on the engine stand okay now if you're scratching your head wondering why I took it off the engine stand to put the bearings in reason is when you put the cam bearings in you need to use this cone to help align right the bearings as you press them in so as you pound these in you need the cone up on one of these to align it now if I go to put in the front bearing without any alignment I risk putting it in crooked yes it's going to follow the bore but it will have a tendency to slide or [ __ ] inside of there so to install the front bearing the front two bearings actually I'll need to use to come in from I got the wrong size on here I'll do it this way so install the front bearing and the second bearing I actually need to come in from the back end of the engine so I can align that and and knock them in and the engine stands dead smack in the middle of the way also when I before I wrap this up put it back on the engine stand I'll put the cam plug on and seal this end up as well all right now putting in cam bearings is kind of one of those things some people put them in themselves some people rely on the machine shop to do that whichever way you do that if you're going to put them in yourself uh you're going to need a good tool for that this happens to be a kind of a universal deal it has a driver and this screws just here on the end of it but the idea is this expands and then we'll grab the bearing and has a good surface to drive on okay so you want to drive it in nice and straight like we already talked about use that cone pop it in have a good tool to do that and then the other is how do you Orient the or position the hole now depending on that on the engine you're doing it's going to be in a different spot but on this um on our 440 it has a one oil feed and it does not have any Groove going around it the groove is on the bearing in this case but at least for the first position so and everyone after that we're going to line up the hole on the bearing to the hole in the block because if you happen to put it in or you block that hole there is not going to be any oil coming into this bearing and you're not going to be happy with your build second thing on bearings for cams 99.9 percent of the time there is a position so in other words a very specific bearing to go in a very specific spot typically it's labeled on the bearings that you get so there's a position and then the part number that's on your bearing so I'm going to get started here by getting my tool up into the bore now in this particular engine the rear cam bearing is smaller than the front so I'm going to start with the big one which is the front bearing and it gets a little tricky the way I have it sitting here but we can make it work because we have to come up through the bottom that's under and I also put a mark to know where the position of my hole is at because once I put it on the driver I can't see the hole anymore but I can see the OD of the bearing all right so with the driver tight to the bearing line it up at my marked position at 12 o'clock that should put the hole of the bearing over the top of the hole in the block get my bfh out and hopefully not throw the block on the ground [Music] [Music] all right so we have our cam bearings in and our cam plug in and I went to go put the plugs for the oil Gallery here and I see I forgot to well plug them off or tape them off for the paint so we got a little overspray not a big deal take pipe tap clean them up I can blow air from this direction to blow that back out everything's dry I'm not worried about being dirty or causing any contamination so let's get these tapped as soon as I have these plugs in then I'm going to put back on the engine stand and whale away at the freeze plugs [Music] [Music] foreign hey while I put these freeze plugs in go down here and check out the hegarty drivers Club in the description now I'm going to move on and put the cam in which maybe a little bit out of order to some fashion but I can reach in here a little easier if the crankshaft isn't there because this lifter Galley doesn't have a lot of space and if I do have any issues with my cam bearings like I kicked up a little Edge or something while I put them in then I can address that a little easier without all the other stuff out of the in the way so with that I'm going to put some Redline Lube on all the cam bearings and then on all the cam surfaces Slide the camshaft in that's what I was afraid of course it's going to be the back one won't even start there it is well we ran into our first snag assembling our engine here basically cam bearings are in what to put the camshaft in just as it starts to put into all five bearings on the camshaft it's way too tight it will not go in I called over to thoroughby's talked to Mike and he says one out of 15 times you get lucky and you don't have to scrape in the bearings so he gave me his trick he said what do you do take your old camshaft or a dilapidated camshaft take a grinder or a cutter and then come in here and angle cut basically a slice into the main journals take a file get that little bit of Burr off and then use the cam the old cam shaft with the gear up on it and basically just scrape them in so these are to size that little bit of lip will take and groove out the bearing because the bearing is soft and go slow and clean it up when you're done so that's where we're headed see what happens all right so before we go ahead and put the cam in you can see down here in this back Journal that bearing has some like marks or rub marks in it where I had the cam in and turned it a little bit so this back one's I'll say the biggest culprit I'm not sure that the front one's here helping us either but let's see how this works see what it pulled out to begin with here well I can already see that it took some on the front bearing yeah well first off this is going to take a while you can see here on the first on the front bearing there's some multi-bearing materials that it pulled already nothing on the second really nothing on a third fourth has it and the fifth is starting so the idea is Wipe Out the [ __ ] out of the groove so you don't drag it through the bearing as you continue [Music] well you can see now we have the camshaft will go all the way in and it rotates which is a beautiful thing so all I want to do now is I'm just going to run a few more spins on it make sure I don't have any weird spots take this camshaft out clean everything up really well and put my new camshaft back in oh look at that it turns with one hand my fingers aren't even bleeding nice Sweet Success Next Step get a crankshaft get our bearings in get a crankshaft in bolt down the mains and then move towards the Pistons but before I get into that I do need to remind everybody that I have already went through and measured for my oil clearance now we've done this in past videos we've thoroughly go through how it's done in real quick terms you take and and place your bearings into the saddle and up into the cap which cap down torque it and measure the distance so you measure the ID here and then you come over to the subsequent main on the crankshaft and measure that OD subtract the two that gives you your oil clearance standard rule of thumb is one inch I'm sorry standard rule of thumb is one thousandth of an inch oil clearance per one inch of diameter shaft diameter so these are a little bit over two so basically these are all set at two and a half to two point seven five we'll call it so we're between two and three thousands clearance oil clearance already so these are all set to go and of course I already done the same thing on the rods as well make sense yep perfect [Music] [Applause] [Music] I need a holster look at that see just the way it's supposed to be turns nice here we go crankshaft is in okay well we're on to our next step of assembling the Pistons onto the rods and you can kind of see things are well really kind of set up weird if you're actually doing this but we're doing a stop motion for the time lapse video so that's why things are kind of stretched out but before I start hanging rings and pistons and all that jazz I knew you do need to go through and set my ring gap for all the piston rings into the bores what that is is making sure when it's in the bore and it's tightened up that basically this Gap is correct I guess we'll say now what is correct luckily with the Rings comes a chart and for instance here I'm going to set it up as Street high performance so my top ring needs to be four and a half thousands times the bore which equates to about twenty thousandths on this particular piston setup and then my second ring needs to be six thousandths larger than that those twenty six thousands and then of course your oil ring also have Gap but they're typically really loose already anyway um so typically you don't have to file fit those but you do always check a couple of them to make sure everything's cool um but process is pretty simple and I'm actually here on five so let me go through one real quick so this is my second ring I'll put it into the number five bore I use this piston well basically a ring depth because you don't want you you want your ring square with the ball the bore you don't want it sitting like this because that Gap will be off feeler gauge already set up they've been pretty much run twenty thousands but you come in here and this one's tight so here you can see it's barely 20 and I need 26.
pull it back out bring it over to my ring filer hold it up nice and square to that I like to go through and count the number of revolutions that gives me makes it quicker the whole process as you get going of course the first one is going to take you longer than the sequential ones because you're going to sneak up on it you don't want to go too far but if you do go a little bit over it's not the end of the world unless you're like at a quarter inch Gap and then you just wasted a good set of rings one two three four five six seven eight six percent seven twenty I find 20 gets me just a hair under uh 26. now I went through and filed it when you file you're going to always raise up just a little bit of Burr the last thing you want to do is take and drop this down on your cylinder with that Burr on there because you're going to put a scar on it so just take a nice little hand file and just kick the edges and of course the points as you go around because it is pretty close to a rectangle foreign 20 to start with so 20 goes in there no problem but my 26 just starts I need to take just a hair off again pull it out put it through the ring filer get it to where it's perfect and then it's rinse and repeat for well all 16 rings okay [Music] back [Music] okay this step is fairly straightforward you have your rings wrist pin Rod piston um you do want to make sure that you when you hang your Rod there is a direction meaning piston has to sit like that in there I mean this is the bottom of the motor this is the top of the motor the valves are up to the top like this and then your rods have your numbers on it that should look at you because there's a big chamfer here that goes to the outside edge if you will the rod journal and that'll make more sense when you look at the crank but make sure you hang them correctly otherwise you'll have to take them back off um let's see let's just get a little oil let's put here it goes yeah and to make things easier I had to pre-install one of the clips that way you can just bring in your wrist pin get started it should these are Slip fit so it should slide right on in like so and then we'll take and you put one of the pin wrist or then you take the other clip and put that in now these can be a little tricky um you'll see there's a little Notch that's for taking them out ideally we're not going to be doing that so I like to put it the end in right here and then I'd push it so there's a ring or a gland down there that this is going to go in put the end in and then you're going to just take and work this around and these clips gain their own name of a lot of different things so you're going to go like like that no I'm not going to fully install these because I need to have it for our time lapse side of things but you can see that there's an effort to put those in you'll probably put a little etch scrape or whatever on the Piston it's not a big deal there if you need to use a screwdriver you can do that to kind of drag it around but then that goes in make sure it is fully engaged into the gland that it's supposed to be if the wrist bin comes out it makes for a really bad day because it tends to go through the cylinder wall nobody likes that all right Rings straight forward I like to use a ring stretcher ring installer but you put in your oil ring first oil control rings I like to put the and the biggest thing is to do everything consistently so you'll see these have a little leg that comes up I like to stick those facing up some rings want them the other direction these want them this way now you take these uh lighter rails and you swing it about 90 degrees from that Gap and then just slowly rotate it around you can see I don't need to stretch this per se it'll walk itself on hold it in position do the same thing on the top side and then just kind of walk it around boom that one's on now your second ring may or may not have a DOT that dot is always up on the Rings If there are no dots then it can be installed up or down it doesn't have a orientation so take your ring spreader and you want to open it just enough to get over the piston ring if you stretch it too far you risk breaking it and you can certainly do this with your thumbs uh you do more than seven or eight of them you might find that in your thumbs aren't feeling so hot and then your top ring same thing a DOT put it on and over this okay now depending again on the ring setup there's a location when you go to put these into the bore as far as where you want to locate these gaps typically it's the bottom gap down and the top Gap up so it'll go in like that so that one's ready to go in [Music] [Music] all right so I have everything laid out here relative to my pistons and I'm getting ready to put those into the block as you see I went through and pulled the Caps back off from being balanced and I had my bearings all numbered here ready to go back on the rods I've already run through and checked the oil clearance everything is good there just went through and lubed up the bores real well with just some generic uh engine oil and uh now it's time to slap her together here we go all right so start with the piston number one piston get a bearing in there and make sure everything stays clean of course and we'll put a little Lube on the bearing that goes on the rod side I've already lubed up the wrist pins so those are good now before I can set this Down in the Hole I need to lube up the Piston I'm going to do that over here over my container you want to lube up the Rings so they don't start up dry some people like to dunk them in a vat of oil I'd find that a little Overkill but definitely wipe it around all the edges that are going to be touching that bore rotate the Rings a little bit make sure there's oil on them okay then just before I stick them into the hole here a make sure the valves are up and then rotate your rings to where you want them to start off with I'm going to put my compression ring number one or top compression ring up towards the top and the the bottom everything's good that way set it in oh get your ring compressor on here that's always a good sign when the first piston goes in smooth meaning you know you don't have the wrong rings okay bearing more assembly Lube more is always better I've never heard anyone tell me I use way too much assembly Lube and that's why I had a problem nope never happens this motor wants to be turned a little bit even with the speed wrench bring them down even the caps if you don't [ __ ] them sideways and a torque spec on these ARP bolts in the eagle rods are is 63 I have that set now I'm just going to evenly bring them down as well kind of by feel here but there we go one down [Music] there we go next on to the timing timing chain get the camshaft degreed in and start putting up tin work [Music] thank you [Music] all right so our oil pan is all buttoned up everything's torqued down that it finishes the short block assembly so let's get this rolled up and we'll be ready for the cylinder heads all right now we're ready for head assembly um you see we got all of our parts out we got our vet we got fresh valves we have fresh Springs new Keepers and retainers and then over here we have a multitude of shims now the key is in this spring it needs to be set at a certain spring height or installed height which gets your seat pressure what's the seat pressure Seat pressure is how hard this valve is being held against the seat in the head and it the spring controls the valve as your cam goes up and down and basically gets this out of the way of the Piston that's coming right after it so you don't want this bumping into the Piston because well that's a bad day pretty simple and straightforward take a valve I put a little oil on it here with all my glasses in the way all right so you get a little oil the idea is you no need to put it into the guide with and grind it up so you put a little oil in there moves nice now you utilize this micrometer that literally takes the place of the spring set your retainer on there and then take your two keepers put those on you do want both of them and then just spin this down until it's tight and then just read your graduation on here like any other micrometer so this shows that I am a one inch 9 45 these Springs want to be installed at one inch 900 to get the appropriate load so I need to add or take away forty five thousands so in that case what I'll do is shims come in fifteen thousands Thirty thousandths and sixty so I will just just simply stack a 15 and a 30 makes 45 take this all back off set your shims on there and then double check your number okay and our numbers it's off just the hair I try to get in within five thousands that's plenty um if you get into a situation where you're at 10 just evaluate which direction a little more Seat pressure is probably better than the less Seat pressure so uh head your bet towards the stiffer than the weaker but that's all it is to uh to set these up pretty straightforward then of course once you go through and do all that keep your shims relative to your holes keep the valves and your retainers together as a match set Keepers tend not to have a a lot of variation and then go through and finish them up then you're all ready for the assembly with the spring [Music] so there's one cylinder head fully assembled now the other cylinder head sitting on that end of the table and it's been watching this whole time so I'm gonna see if it can symbol itself [Music] we are moving towards putting our cylinder heads on I have my torque sequence already out of my motor's manual so I have that that's very important because you want to make sure you pull that cylinder head down nice and even but before we did put the heads on I already went through and I checked my clearances so I mocked it up with push route and all the the rocker arms and that and I checked my clearance for my valves coming down making sure there was no issues interference wise into the piston and that's all good to go so we're ready for assembly okay so our process for assembling the cylinder heads is have a nice clean surface on our deck of our engine lay our gasket down on there and then bring our cylinder head over set it down onto the dowels and then put some ARP uh Fastener Lube on every one of the bolts not only on the threads but underneath the washers go through and torque them in the sequence starting at 30 foot pounds go to 50 and then ultimately go to 70.
You want to break that 70 up into into three steps to bring that gasket down and compress it evenly all right well that one's not going anywhere let's get the other side done [Music] well you saw my push rods and lifters well they assembled themselves which is pretty nice because I had a cup of coffee while they were doing that and uh now I'm ready to put my rocker shaft assembly on there but one thing I want to make a note of these are not adjustable so in other words when I lock these down they go to a stop or a torque and that's it so if my push rods are not long enough they will not pre-load into the lifter as they're supposed to so pretty simple you how to measure that is just take your rocker assembly on there set it down in place of your solid push rod using an adjustable push rod set it to zero Lash come out measure what this distance is and then add to the length of your push rod for your preload so that's how we got to where we're at with that I'm going to keep moving along here and get my shaft assembly on and then go forward with the valve covers [Music] that wraps up our valve covers and of course the shafts [Music] now let's move on to putting our water pump on our oil pump fuel pump and the dampener [Music] with our oil pump installed and a filter on now I want to take and fill up with some breaking oil and I'm going to prime the pump basically and the whole oiling system so yes I'll have I'm going to pull my valve covers back off so I can see that I'm getting oil to the shafts on the rocker arms and uh of course before you put your primer down there and start spinning that pump make sure you put a gauge back here so you can read the oil pressure if you don't get this plugged it'll let you know because it'll shoot it across the room ask me how I know this so oil in spin the shaft find the oil coming up out of the holes in through everywhere where it needs to be at and then I'll button this all back up so let's skip our spin foreign a little faster there we go you can already see it coming out of the lifter it's pretty good we got low speed of this drill and we're running uh 75.
we may have to turn this from any of these dripping over here uh run it 90 and run it that way that cam if there's an issue for where the cam has to be lined up to the oil hole there's gonna drip everywhere it's all going straight down that really we're gonna put the lid on that one because that's going to be a mess let's do this catch it um that was fast for fast as that went before let's roll this one more another 90. that should be back to where we started as far as concerned oh no there we go that's what we're looking for all right so Mopar does things a little bit different on their cams and how they uh feed up to the shaft rockers you have to roll the camshaft and basically it so it's not oiling constantly but it is constantly when it's running um so we have oil everywhere as you can see it's gushes out of the top end so we're good there um I'm gonna put my valve cover back on roll this back up and basically go to the Valley Pan and the intake manifold oh and for those of you are wondering as this because my I want to point this out okay so this is homemade and it's not straight right I also do not have the bushing in here so in case you're worried that I'm blowing the bushing out I'm not because it's not there but I will put it in before I put the intake manifold on so I can reach in there and drop it in I have a fresh one in the freezer to hopefully go in easier all right you barely turn it and you didn't boil coming up you think it'll have enough oil coming over the top of those Springs we were we were worried about that I think we have the front end done we're starting on to our intake manifold we're going to put our alternator on and that type of stuff but I wanted to point on a couple things where you can get yourself in some real trouble here if the bolts on the front of your water pump are too long when they go through the pulley they'll bottle bottom out on the water pump and that'll be a bad day uh secondly you want to make sure that the belts line up so if you have to shim everything around do that make sure it's straight otherwise you're going to throw a belt when you're uh do an excess RPM and one of the last things I want to point out before I go to button this up rotate the engine over make sure everything stays where it's supposed to be simple stuff like the the lifters need to line up with the with the cam lobes no no that sounds really stupid but let's say things move around or shifted or you forgot to put the cam button in if it was a roller cam or there's other issues uh just make sure it looks right and does what it's supposed to do you'll thank yourself later after it's all buttoned up and you're running it so moving forward going to get the little alternator on water neck exhaust intake and we're really close [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] well that's a wrap for this time engines assembled next time you're going to see it it's going to be in the race car running and making laps so until then get out in the shop go get your work done see ya